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Porcini Ragù

Finely chopped dried porcini give this sauce the richness of a long-simmered ragù in well under an hour. It's a good pantry dinner for a cold night.
Serves 2 to 4 · 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 1½ ounces (40 grams) dried porcini mushrooms
- Boiling water, for soaking
- Fine salt and black pepper
- ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for serving
- 3 garlic cloves, very finely chopped
- ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper, or less to taste
- ½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves and stems, plus more for serving
- 1½ tablespoons tomato paste
- About 9 ounces (250 grams) dried tagliatelle nests
- 1½ ounces Parmesan, very finely grated (about ¾ cup loosely packed), plus more for serving
- 3 tablespoons heavy cream
Instructions
- Cover the porcini with boiling water in a bowl and soak for 10 minutes. Drain, saving 5 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Chop the mushrooms very finely, to about the texture of ground meat. Put a pot of salted water on to boil.
- Put the oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, parsley and a heaping ¼ teaspoon salt into a large, cold sauté pan. Set it over medium-low heat and cook gently for 5 minutes, until soft and just golden. Turn the heat down if the garlic starts to brown.
- Raise the heat to medium-high and add the chopped porcini, tomato paste and a generous amount of black pepper, 1 to 1½ teaspoons. Stir-fry for 3 minutes, then take the pan off the heat.
- Cook the tagliatelle in the boiling water until al dente, following the package timing. Save 1¾ cups of the pasta water, then drain.
- Return the sauté pan to medium-high heat and add 1½ cups of the pasta water and the porcini liquid. Bring to a simmer and let it bubble for 3 minutes.
- Stir in half the Parmesan until it melts, then add the rest. Turn the heat to medium, stir in the cream and add the drained pasta. Toss for 1 to 2 minutes, until the sauce turns glossy and clings to the noodles, adding a splash more pasta water if it looks dry.
- Serve right away, topped with more olive oil, Parmesan and parsley.
Adapted from a recipe by Ixta Belfrage, from her cookbook Mezcla, in NYT Cooking.
